Day 13 - Inverness to The Crask Inn
Day 13
66 miles
1050m ascent
2400 calories
Top day! Multiple stops, taken very tranquilo, with outstanding scenery and weather. Scotland is beautiful!
I slept fewer hours than desired last night, due to writing this blog until 0100. But then I feel like a fool moaning about sleep deprivation after 6 hours of sleep, when people like Carlos cycle 200 miles in a day on only a couple of hours sleep.
Dad had decided to leave us at this point as he felt I was well taken care of, & he wasn't really doing much during the day.
I was sad to see him go, but we were excited to start the penultimate day.
The sky was a deep blue, scattered with the occasional white whisp. The sun was gleaming with optimism over the city we were leaving behind.
We crossed the Kessock bridge over the Moray Firth, & took the NCN 1 down along the water's edge. If it weren't for the icy temperature, I could have mistaken our location for the Med.
The cycle path continued along a main A road, taking us towards stunning views of golden brown hills, & through some northern towns. I delayed us quite a bit to get myself some treatment for an infection I've had in my gum for the past week, so by Midday we had literally done just 14 miles...thank gosh today was a short one!
After the pharmacy in Dingwall, we cracked on, feeding our bodies on energy/snack bars, holding out until our stop at mile 42.
This road was epic (despite how overused this word has become). Comparisons to the landscape in Northern Canada, or Scandinavia were flung around. Shimmering golden land, & mountains, covered in coniferous forests so neatly planted in rows, steady up & down hills on smooth tarmac, & over gently flowing streams.
On some of these hill summits we approached formal viewpoints, one overlooking the beautifully clear bay of Dornoch Firth.
De-caffeinated & hungry we arrived in Bonar Bridge. Greg dreamt of a sturdy spud with beans, however the only open cafe/restaurant in this town had no vegan option (even the choice of soup was with milk, or with meat). So we had hot drinks, & I had my pre-made wraps, whilst greg bought hummus (his 2nd meal of bread with hummus of the day).
The last 25 miles were increasingly remote & wild. We kept looking out for the cowboys.
Seriously though, I couldn't believe this was Scotland! One single-lane road gently undulated ahead, across miles & miles of brown grassland, the mountains gathering up along the whole horizon. Every so often a packed collection of coniferous trees, & we disturbed a couple of large brown speckled birds of prey.
At one point the road took us through some forest tracks, which opened out onto a river. In that moment something flipped up into the air, above a small waterfall - a Scottish Salmon!
Eventually as the sun was lowering itself behind one of our eastern mountain companions, we could see it in the distance: the Crask Inn!!! A place of legends.
This pub & bunkhouse is the only building amongst the northern wilderness, & it is owned by two brilliant people. Step inside & it feels like a cozy house, where you're welcome to also make it your home.
Mike, or 'Mr Crask' as we like to call him, assured me on the telephone that they would cater for us vegans that evening.
On the journey up my comrade repeatedly teased me with visions of an epic vegan feast, "as if greg, I'd be happy/impressed enough with a bean chilli."
Well, we actually sat down to a THREE course dinner. Potato & Leek soup with homemade bread & vegan margarine, followed by a vegan pizza (yes, piled high with vegan cheese!!) & a side of vegetables, then a dessert of homemade vegan rhubarb & apple crumble.
What a dream come true. What a way to end another brilliant dream of a day.
Bring on the finale.
66 miles
1050m ascent
2400 calories
Top day! Multiple stops, taken very tranquilo, with outstanding scenery and weather. Scotland is beautiful!
I slept fewer hours than desired last night, due to writing this blog until 0100. But then I feel like a fool moaning about sleep deprivation after 6 hours of sleep, when people like Carlos cycle 200 miles in a day on only a couple of hours sleep.
Dad had decided to leave us at this point as he felt I was well taken care of, & he wasn't really doing much during the day.
I was sad to see him go, but we were excited to start the penultimate day.
The sky was a deep blue, scattered with the occasional white whisp. The sun was gleaming with optimism over the city we were leaving behind.
We crossed the Kessock bridge over the Moray Firth, & took the NCN 1 down along the water's edge. If it weren't for the icy temperature, I could have mistaken our location for the Med.
The cycle path continued along a main A road, taking us towards stunning views of golden brown hills, & through some northern towns. I delayed us quite a bit to get myself some treatment for an infection I've had in my gum for the past week, so by Midday we had literally done just 14 miles...thank gosh today was a short one!
After the pharmacy in Dingwall, we cracked on, feeding our bodies on energy/snack bars, holding out until our stop at mile 42.
This road was epic (despite how overused this word has become). Comparisons to the landscape in Northern Canada, or Scandinavia were flung around. Shimmering golden land, & mountains, covered in coniferous forests so neatly planted in rows, steady up & down hills on smooth tarmac, & over gently flowing streams.
On some of these hill summits we approached formal viewpoints, one overlooking the beautifully clear bay of Dornoch Firth.
De-caffeinated & hungry we arrived in Bonar Bridge. Greg dreamt of a sturdy spud with beans, however the only open cafe/restaurant in this town had no vegan option (even the choice of soup was with milk, or with meat). So we had hot drinks, & I had my pre-made wraps, whilst greg bought hummus (his 2nd meal of bread with hummus of the day).
The last 25 miles were increasingly remote & wild. We kept looking out for the cowboys.
Seriously though, I couldn't believe this was Scotland! One single-lane road gently undulated ahead, across miles & miles of brown grassland, the mountains gathering up along the whole horizon. Every so often a packed collection of coniferous trees, & we disturbed a couple of large brown speckled birds of prey.
At one point the road took us through some forest tracks, which opened out onto a river. In that moment something flipped up into the air, above a small waterfall - a Scottish Salmon!
Eventually as the sun was lowering itself behind one of our eastern mountain companions, we could see it in the distance: the Crask Inn!!! A place of legends.
This pub & bunkhouse is the only building amongst the northern wilderness, & it is owned by two brilliant people. Step inside & it feels like a cozy house, where you're welcome to also make it your home.
Mike, or 'Mr Crask' as we like to call him, assured me on the telephone that they would cater for us vegans that evening.
On the journey up my comrade repeatedly teased me with visions of an epic vegan feast, "as if greg, I'd be happy/impressed enough with a bean chilli."
Well, we actually sat down to a THREE course dinner. Potato & Leek soup with homemade bread & vegan margarine, followed by a vegan pizza (yes, piled high with vegan cheese!!) & a side of vegetables, then a dessert of homemade vegan rhubarb & apple crumble.
What a dream come true. What a way to end another brilliant dream of a day.
Bring on the finale.












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