LEJOG Day 12 - Glencoe to Inverness
Day 12
83 miles
1470m ascent
3280 calories
A Scottish 'coast to coast'.
Mixed day of wet fast riding, a mechanical issue, 9 miles of undesired slow off-road, followed by an exhilarating finish!
Dad & I had breakfast, anticipating some rudeness from the hostess. Fortunately she was pleasant enough, & I had some beans on toast, plus a bowl of muesli with my own milk. Because we hadn't been allowed to take wet things into the B&B (...!) the padding around the inside of my helmet was dripping wet as I touched it, as were my cycling shoes. So infuriating & an uncomfortable way to start the day!
Greg pointed out we should've just used his hostel's dry room.
We set off later today, probably around 0915, & despite the horrific weather warnings, we didn't face too much windy wrath except for the first few miles of headwind, until we reached Glencoe's western edge.
The views were stunning, now that we could actually see them!
We crossed the bridge between Loch Leven & Loch Linnhe, constantly stopping to admire the series of mountains in the distance framed by the moody morning sky.
We even went down to the Loch Linnhe shoreline, where waves were crashing onto the pebbles (& Greg got some great atmospheric shots).
The rain continued intermittently, but the wind was no longer a violent bully, it was now our ally - pushing us from behind, yes!!
We glided along the flat smooth A82 into Fort William 16 miles later, where we had a quick loo break. We met two other cyclists doing a a few days touring around the western Isles, & I got a free espresso! Basically I didn't realise it was cash only, then the waitress spilled half of it over my phone, so just gave it to me apologising (phone is fine); win!
The route strangely lead us away from the direct A82 & started taking us to the road which follows the Caledonian canal. This was very pretty, except eventually lead us to this off-road rocky/dirt path to the north of Loch Lochy. For 9 miles.
To make it even better, just before we reached this terrible 'road', Greg's pedal & crank arm appeared to be hanging off his shoe...
He was missing the bolt that attaches it fully.
Suddenly a car pulled over, & the lovely Fiona welcomed us to her nearby garage in case any of her husband's tools or bike parts were of use. Sadly we realised it was unlikely, but Greg would be able to gently slot it back on, & pedal with it until we came across a bike shop. It seemed Inverness would be the nearest place...53 miles away.
After a slow slog up & down loose stones & mud (which we will have to feedback to the writer of this route!), we made it back to the A82, yay! Beautiful smooth tarmac, we were so happy.
At 43 miles we got to Invergarry where we rested & warmed ourselves by a log fire in this beautiful hotel come Michelin restaurant. My right foot had been soaked & numbed cold, so putting paper in my shoes & utilising the fire, made my digits return to life!
Fort Augustus marked our 50 mile point, & the start of Loch Ness. It was also where we miraculously saw Girvin's bike rentals - they had Greg's missing part & the tool required to fix it! The nice chap Connor didn't even charge us.
Happy Greg!
Now, we had a choice between the flat A82 into Inverness, OR the hilly back route (General Wade's Military Road) described as spectacular. Of course we went for the hills & views! & oh my Lord, it was definitely the best decision.
It added nearly 800m of ascent overall, yet despite this, it was do-able and very enjoyable. The smooth well-surfaced road gradually eased itself upwards, alpine-style, through the thick pine forests. By this point the weather had cleared so we were treated to blue skies & a crisp cold breeze.
Once at this summit, the reward was unbelievable. A horizon crammed full of mountains, lochs, & alpine-like tree clusters.
We wrapped up & thrust ourselves down this perfectly undulating drop.
This old military road treated us for a further 25 miles, weaving around hidden collections of lochs, rivers & hills. We even saw two (almost) formed ox-bow lakes - got to love being a geography nerd!
Time was running away quickly, & as it neared 7pm the air became more frosty, darkness was rearing its head, & finally our constant downhill was taking us into the city of Inverness.
We got (too much) food from a Tesco, to make my favourite dish, thai green curry, & plenty of vegan delights for dessert/breakfast/snacks. I say we, but Greg the gent wouldn't let me pay a penny. Definitely need to find a way to show my appreciation for all he's done on this trip.
Found the hostel where dad was waiting, but as I'd suspected, he thought 9pm cooking was far too late, so sadly didn't join.
Greg & I enjoyed some chocolate milk, alpro fruity cream/yoghurt desserts, & a very large curry. Classically I ate enough for two people, but hey - we've earned it!
Can't believe just two days left!
x
83 miles
1470m ascent
3280 calories
A Scottish 'coast to coast'.
Mixed day of wet fast riding, a mechanical issue, 9 miles of undesired slow off-road, followed by an exhilarating finish!
 |
| Lock Linnhe |
Dad & I had breakfast, anticipating some rudeness from the hostess. Fortunately she was pleasant enough, & I had some beans on toast, plus a bowl of muesli with my own milk. Because we hadn't been allowed to take wet things into the B&B (...!) the padding around the inside of my helmet was dripping wet as I touched it, as were my cycling shoes. So infuriating & an uncomfortable way to start the day!
Greg pointed out we should've just used his hostel's dry room.
We set off later today, probably around 0915, & despite the horrific weather warnings, we didn't face too much windy wrath except for the first few miles of headwind, until we reached Glencoe's western edge.
The views were stunning, now that we could actually see them!
We crossed the bridge between Loch Leven & Loch Linnhe, constantly stopping to admire the series of mountains in the distance framed by the moody morning sky.
We even went down to the Loch Linnhe shoreline, where waves were crashing onto the pebbles (& Greg got some great atmospheric shots).
The rain continued intermittently, but the wind was no longer a violent bully, it was now our ally - pushing us from behind, yes!!
We glided along the flat smooth A82 into Fort William 16 miles later, where we had a quick loo break. We met two other cyclists doing a a few days touring around the western Isles, & I got a free espresso! Basically I didn't realise it was cash only, then the waitress spilled half of it over my phone, so just gave it to me apologising (phone is fine); win!
The route strangely lead us away from the direct A82 & started taking us to the road which follows the Caledonian canal. This was very pretty, except eventually lead us to this off-road rocky/dirt path to the north of Loch Lochy. For 9 miles.
To make it even better, just before we reached this terrible 'road', Greg's pedal & crank arm appeared to be hanging off his shoe...
Suddenly a car pulled over, & the lovely Fiona welcomed us to her nearby garage in case any of her husband's tools or bike parts were of use. Sadly we realised it was unlikely, but Greg would be able to gently slot it back on, & pedal with it until we came across a bike shop. It seemed Inverness would be the nearest place...53 miles away.
 |
| Fiona, who tried to help us! |
At 43 miles we got to Invergarry where we rested & warmed ourselves by a log fire in this beautiful hotel come Michelin restaurant. My right foot had been soaked & numbed cold, so putting paper in my shoes & utilising the fire, made my digits return to life!
Fort Augustus marked our 50 mile point, & the start of Loch Ness. It was also where we miraculously saw Girvin's bike rentals - they had Greg's missing part & the tool required to fix it! The nice chap Connor didn't even charge us.
Happy Greg!
 |
| Bike all fixed & raring to go |
It added nearly 800m of ascent overall, yet despite this, it was do-able and very enjoyable. The smooth well-surfaced road gradually eased itself upwards, alpine-style, through the thick pine forests. By this point the weather had cleared so we were treated to blue skies & a crisp cold breeze.
Once at this summit, the reward was unbelievable. A horizon crammed full of mountains, lochs, & alpine-like tree clusters.
We wrapped up & thrust ourselves down this perfectly undulating drop.
This old military road treated us for a further 25 miles, weaving around hidden collections of lochs, rivers & hills. We even saw two (almost) formed ox-bow lakes - got to love being a geography nerd!
We got (too much) food from a Tesco, to make my favourite dish, thai green curry, & plenty of vegan delights for dessert/breakfast/snacks. I say we, but Greg the gent wouldn't let me pay a penny. Definitely need to find a way to show my appreciation for all he's done on this trip.
Found the hostel where dad was waiting, but as I'd suspected, he thought 9pm cooking was far too late, so sadly didn't join.
Greg & I enjoyed some chocolate milk, alpro fruity cream/yoghurt desserts, & a very large curry. Classically I ate enough for two people, but hey - we've earned it!
 |
| Tofu thai green curry |
Can't believe just two days left!
x
Comments
Post a Comment